Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II

The Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II shines as a travel camera because of its excellent balance of compactness, functionality, and affordability. Weighing just 206g (7.5 oz), carrying around on your travels is convenient without burdening your luggage. Its 1.0-inch, 20.1 Megapixel CMOS sensor ensures high-quality images, sharper than what most smartphones can produce.

Furthermore, it’s equipped with a fast, f/2.0–4.9 lens that captures plenty of detail, even in low light conditions – perfect for those spontaneous, impromptu travel snaps.

Its Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity offer seamless photo sharing, ensuring your memories can be easily stored or shared on the go. Lastly, the touch panel and simple user interface make it easy to use, even for photography novices.

Despite its many perks, the Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II has a few limitations. Its zoom range, notably, is quite limited—just a 3x optical zoom—which might not be sufficient for capturing distant subjects or intricate landscape details. The video resolution is also limited to 1080p, so it wouldn’t be the best pick for an action camera.

Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II

Overview

The Canon PowerShot G9 X Mark II is a pocket-sized camera that packs a punch with its 20.1 megapixel CMOS sensor and DIGIC 7 Image Processor.

It features 3x optical zoom and a 28-84mm f/2.0-4.9 lens, making it perfect for wide-angle and telephoto shots.

In addition, it’s extremely lightweight, weighs only 206 g (7.25 oz), and has a reliable battery life. It’s perfect for capturing amazing moments while traveling on a budget.

Pros

• 20 MP sensor
• WiFi, NFC & Bluetooth
• Great build quality
• 3x Optical Zoom
• 3″ Touch Screen
• Lightweight
• Body comes in black or silver/leather

Cons

• Zoom Lens only 28-84mm
• Video Resolution only 1080/60p
• LCD Screen is fixed (no flip or swivel)
• Battery 235 shots per charge

Check Customer Reviews

Check Current Price

Sony HX99

The Sony HX99 is ideal for a travel camera, blending portability, affordability, and impressive functionality. This compact powerhouse boasts a high-zoom range with its 24-720 mm lens, making it versatile for close-up and distant shots.

The 18.2 Megapixel Exmor R CMOS sensor ensures high-resolution images, while its BIONZ X image processing engine helps capture fine details and reduces noise, even in low-light conditions.

The Sony HX99 stands out for its 4K video capabilities and continuous shooting feature, perfect for capturing motion-filled travel adventures. With built-in Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, sharing or transferring your images to your device is a breeze.

Finally, its 180° tiltable LCD for easy self-portraits and the pop-up OLED Tru-Finder viewfinder for more accurate framings make the Sony HX99 a robust, user-friendly choice for travelers.

While the Sony HX99 excels in many areas, there are some limitations to note. The camera’s impressive zoom range can sometimes lead to decreased image quality at full zoom. Moreover, despite its 4K video capabilities, the lack of an external microphone port may limit its appeal for those hoping to capture high-quality audio alongside their visuals.

Sony HX99

Overview

The Sony HX99 offers an impressive 24-720mm f/3.5-6.4 zoom lens and a high-quality 18.2 megapixel CMOS sensor.

It perfectly balances exceptional image quality and easy portability, weighing only 242 g (0.53 lb / 8.54 oz).

It also features an impressive zoom range that lets you capture landscapes and candid shots.

Pros

• 18.2 MP sensor
• WiFi, NFC & Bluetooth
• Great build quality
• 24-720 mm lens
• 180° tiltable LCD
• Lightweight

Cons

• Possibly soft focus at full zoom
• No external mic
• Battery 370 shots per charge

Check Customer Reviews

Check Current Price

Panasonic Lumix ZS70

The Panasonic Lumix ZS70 elevates travel photography with its robust features while maintaining affordability. Equipped with a 20.3 Megapixel MOS sensor and a versatile 30x Leica DC VARIO-ELMAR Lens (24-720mm), the Lumix ZS70 ensures high-quality images from expansive landscapes to distant subjects.

Its unique 4K PHOTO mode lets you capture the perfect moment by selecting a frame from a video sequence shot at a high burst rate of 30fps, ensuring you never miss an important shot.

Moreover, it boasts a Control Ring for quick and intuitive setting adjustments and a 180-degree front flip-up touch screen, making it easier to take high-quality selfies.

The built-in Wi-Fi allows for instant photo sharing and remote camera control. The camera’s compactness, weighing just 322g (11.3 oz), makes it an excellent choice for travel enthusiasts who are looking for portability without sacrificing performance.

Despite its noteworthy features, the Panasonic Lumix ZS70 has its share of drawbacks that potential buyers should consider. Its low-light performance could be better; images tend to be grainy with noticeable noise when shot in dim conditions. While fine for still photography, the autofocus system struggles a bit during video capture, particularly at higher zoom levels.

Lastly, while the camera offers 4K video recording, it is limited to 15 frames per second, resulting in less smooth footage compared to cameras that offer 4K at 30fps or 60fps.

Panasonic Lumix ZS70

Overview

If you’re looking for a camera that fixes everything, the Panasonic Lumix ZS70 is the one for you.

It features a 20.3 megapixel MOS sensor, 30x optical zoom Leica lens, and 4K video capabilities for exceptional image quality.

Additionally, it comes with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, making it easy to transfer images while you’re on the go.

Pros

• 20.3 MP sensor
• WiFi, NFC & Bluetooth
• 24-720 mm lens
• 180° tiltable LCD
• Lightweight

Cons

• Grainy images in low light
• Autofocus issues in video
• 4K Video limited to 15 fps
• Battery 250 shots

Check Customer Reviews

Check Current Price

Fujifilm FinePix XP120

The Fujifilm FinePix XP120 is a standout option for travelers seeking durability and performance in one compact package. Its robust, weather-sealed body is designed to withstand the elements, making it a perfect companion for adventurous excursions, whether you’re hiking in the mountains or diving underwater.

The camera boasts a 16.4-megapixel BSI-CMOS sensor and a 5x optical zoom lens, delivering crisp, clear images across various lighting conditions.

Its built-in Wi-Fi connectivity allows for the swift transfer of photos and videos to your devices, ensuring that sharing your travel experiences is effortless. Furthermore, the FinePix XP120’s lightweight design, at just 203g (7.2 oz), ensures it won’t be a burden during your travels, while its vibrant color options add an element of fun to your photography gear.

While the Fujifilm FinePix XP120 possesses many attractive attributes, it’s not without its drawbacks. Despite 1080p full HD resolution, the video quality can be inconsistent, particularly in low-light conditions. Also, while sufficient for many scenarios, the camera’s 5x optical zoom may not cater to those who wish to capture detailed images from a distance.

Furthermore, the lack of manual controls limits users’ ability to customize settings according to their preference, which might deter more advanced photographers. Finally, the battery life, while acceptable, may fall short during extended use, which could be problematic for users on long trips or those without readily available charging options.

Fujifilm FinePix XP120

Overview

The Fujifilm FinePix XP120 is a rugged, compact camera that is ideal for adventurous travelers.

Its 16.4 megapixel CMOS sensor, combined with the 28-140mm f/3.9-4.9 5x optical zoom lens, delivers crisp and clear images.

Its robustness sets this camera apart; it’s waterproof up to 65 feet, shockproof from 5.8 feet, and freeze-proof down to -10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees F).

Pros

• 16.4 MP sensor
• WiFi & Bluetooth
• Shockproof
• Waterproof to 20m/65′
• Lightweight
• The body comes in several colors

Cons

• Grainy images in low light
• 24-140 mm lens
• Video limited to 1080p
• Fixed screen
• Battery 250 shots

Check Customer Reviews

Check Current Price

OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7

The OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7 is an exceptional travel camera due to its rugged durability and high-performance features. Its waterproof, shockproof, and freeze-proof design is built to withstand extreme environments, making it an ideal companion for adventurous travelers.

The camera’s high-resolution sensor and broad zoom range lens allow it to capture vivid and detailed images in various settings, from breathtaking landscapes to intricate close-ups. Its compact and lightweight design also offers easy portability, a critical characteristic of any travel camera.

Despite its toughness, it doesn’t compromise image quality, boasting a 12-megapixel CMOS sensor and 4x optical zoom, with a 25-100mm equivalent f/2.0-4.9 lens. It also has impressive 4K and high-speed video capabilities, making it possible to capture stunning slow-motion sequences. Furthermore, the TG-7 includes built-in Wi-Fi and GPS, making travel photography convenient.

The inclusion of Wi-Fi connectivity further enhances its appeal by simplifying the process of sharing your unique travel experiences. Hence, the OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7 perfectly marries rugged resilience with uncompromised performance, setting it apart as an exceptional travel camera.

However, the OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7, despite its impressive features and hardy design, does have some limitations that potential buyers should consider. One significant drawback is its low light performance; the images can exhibit noticeable noise and lose detail in poor lighting conditions.

Additionally, while the camera can endure harsh conditions, its lens is not dustproof, which could pose issues when used in sandy or dusty environments. Lastly, the absence of manual control might deter advanced photographers who prefer to have more control over their camera settings.

OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7

Overview

The OM SYSTEM Tough TG-7 is an impressive choice for adventurous travelers who need a rugged, reliable, and affordable camera. It’s designed to withstand extreme conditions, being waterproof, shockproof, and even freezeproof.

Boasting a 12-megapixel CMOS sensor and 4x optical zoom, with a 25-100mm equivalent f/2.0-4.9 lens.

It also has impressive 4K and high-speed video capabilities, making it possible to capture stunning slow-motion sequences.

Pros

• GPS, WiFi & Bluetooth
• Shockproof 2.1 meters (7 feet)
• Waterproof 15 meters (50 feet)
• Freezeproof -10 °C (14 °F)
• Records at 4K and 120fps
• Macro focusing
• Lightweight
• The body comes in several colors

Cons

• 12 MP sensor
• Grainy images in low light
• 25-100 mm lens
• Fixed screen
• Battery 330 shots per charge

Check Customer Reviews

Check Current Price

Conclusion – Cameras for Travel

When it comes to finding an affordable travel camera, you don’t need to sacrifice quality for an affordable price. These are some of the best inexpensive travel cameras on the market that feature both high-quality images and portability, lightweight and compact. It’s time to turn your travels into unforgettable memories with a camera that fits your budget.

Happy snapping!

If you like guides like this, check out my Guides section for more helpful information.

Five Most Important Features in a Travel Camera

• Durability and Weather Resistance: A good travel camera should withstand various conditions, from rain and snow to dust and heat. Look for waterproof, shockproof, and dustproof cameras to ensure they can handle your adventures.
• Image Quality: High resolution and good low-light performance are key factors to consider regarding image quality. Look for cameras with high megapixel counts and large sensors. Features like optical zoom can also greatly enhance the quality of your photos.
• Size and Weight: As a traveler, you want a lightweight, compact camera for easy portability. Bulky cameras can be cumbersome, especially on long trips or during outdoor activities.
• Battery Life: The best travel cameras offer long battery life to ensure you can capture as many photos as you want throughout your trip. Consider a camera with a removable battery, as you can carry extras for longer journeys.
• Additional Features: Look for additional features like Wi-Fi connectivity for easy photo transfer, GPS for location tagging, and video capabilities for capturing dynamic scenes. Manual controls allow for more flexibility and customization, which can be particularly important for advanced photographers.

The post 5 Best And Affordable Travel Cameras in 2023 appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

Understand Etsy’s Photo Requirements

Before starting, please make sure you know Etsy’s image requirements.

Etsy recommends using at least five high-quality photos from multiple angles. The maximum size of each image is 20MB and should ideally be at least 2000 pixels wide for clarity. However, images larger than 1MB may experience upload difficulties. You should use websites, Photoshop, or similar software to resize your images. Images should use the sRGB color profile to display the correct colors on Etsy.

Etsy’s style leans towards a more personal and intimate presentation of items. Lifestyle shots that show the item in use are highly encouraged.

Etsy product images should be in .jpg, .gif, or .png file formats, but note that animated .gif and transparent .png files are unsupported.

The first photo in a listing should be horizontal or square to optimize thumbnail views, and subsequent photos should match this shape. Etsy does auto-rotate listing photos based on the image file’s information, but you might need to manually adjust this with a photo editing service.

Your thumbnail images need a border for cropping, and you should use Etsy’s crop tool for accurate framing. Tips include capturing images from a distance, using horizontal or landscape orientation, and using an aspect ratio of 4:3. When adding images, use the placement tool for fine-tuning. The final image will likely be cropped down from the original, so the initial image must have a high resolution.

Steps to Create Your Product Images

Set Up Your Studio

Use natural light when possible, as it best captures your product’s authentic colors and detailsConsider using a mannequin or model to show scale and fit if it’s a wearable item. A well-lit room with a window can work wonderfully. Use a simple backdrop that does not distract from your product.

Prepare Your Product

Ensure your product is clean, tidy, and presentable. Consider using a mannequin or model to show scale and fit if it’s wearable.

Position Your Camera

A tripod is essential to ensure stability and prevent blurry images. Set the camera or smartphone at a distance where the product fills most of the frame.

Experiment with Angles and Context

Etsy shoppers appreciate seeing products from all angles. Close-ups of any unique features, craftsmanship, or textures help convey the quality of your product. Contextual or lifestyle photos showing the product in use can help buyers visualize how they could use or wear your item.

Shoot Your Photos

Take your shots, ensuring the product is in focus. Remember, having more photos is better, so take plenty.

Edit Your Photos

Adjust brightness, contrast, and color balance to ensure the photos represent the product accurately. Avoid overly processed images, as they can mislead customers. Also, make sure the images are edited and exported using the sRGB color space so that the colors display correctly on the site.

Upload Your Photos

Upload your photos to your Etsy listing. Remember, the first picture you upload will be the primary thumbnail image used in your shop and search results. Make it count!

Conclusion

Following these guidelines, you can create engaging, appealing product photography that stands out in Etsy’s marketplace, attracting potential customers and driving sales.

Thanks for reading. This post is part of a series on e-Commerce product photography. If you’d like to learn more about the tools needed to create great product photography for Amazon or anywhere online, please check out my E-commerce Product Photography Tools post.

And always, if you want to learn more about photography, check out our Guides section.

The post How to Shoot Product Photography for Etsy appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

Understanding Amazon’s Product Image Requirements

Before you start, familiarize yourself with Amazon’s product image requirements.

To comply with the site’s standards, all product images must be true representations of the products on sale, match the product title, fill at least 85% of the image, and not exceed 10,000px on the longest side. The image files should be JPEG, TIFF, PNG, or GIF, with JPEG preferred. The images should not be blurry, pixelated, or have jagged edges. They must not contain nudity, Amazon logos, trademarks, badges, or anything similar.

The background must be pure white for the main product images, and the images should be professional photographs of the product without any text, logos, borders, color blocks, watermarks, and graphics. The image should show the entire product for sale without packaging unless it is an important product feature. Images involving clothing and accessories have specific requirements, such as being photographed flat, not showing any part of a mannequin, and showing the product on a human model for Women’s and Men’s clothing. Images of shoes should show a single shoe facing left at a 45-degree angle.

Steps to Create Your Product Images

Set Up Your Studio

Choose a location with plenty of natural light or supplement with artificial lighting. Use a lightbox or white backdrop, ensuring it’s clean and wrinkle-free.

Prepare Your Product

Make sure your product is in top condition. This might involve cleaning, assembling, or even staging the product in a manner that best showcases its features and uses.

Position Your Camera

Mount your camera or smartphone on a tripod. Adjust the height and distance to match your product size. Ensure the product and camera are at the same level.

Experiment with Angles

Amazon recommends multiple shots from different angles and detailed close-ups to showcase all the product’s features. Use standard angles like front, back, side, top, and a 45-degree angle.

Shoot Your Photos

Ensure the product is in focus, the lighting is even, and the product’s colors are represented accurately.

Edit Your Photos

Use photo editing software to tweak the brightness, clarity, and color. Remove any flaws or distractions. Per Amazon’s guidelines, ensure the background is white (RGB 255, 255 255).

Upload Your Photos

Upload your photos to your Amazon listing. Ensure they are correctly sized and formatted according to Amazon’s guidelines.

Conclusion

Following these guidelines, you can successfully shoot product photography that meets Amazon’s standards and appeals to potential customers.

Thanks for reading. This post is part of a series on e-Commerce product photography. If you’d like to learn more about the tools needed to create great product photography for Amazon or anywhere online, please check out my E-commerce Product Photography Tools post.

And always, if you want to learn more about photography, check out our Guides section.

The post How to Shoot Product Photography for Amazon appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

In today’s digital age, e-commerce has become a booming industry. More and more people are shopping online, making it essential for businesses to have an online presence. However, with so many e-commerce websites on the internet, it can take some effort to stand out.

One way to grab the attention of potential customers is through high-quality product photography. However, not everyone has the budget to hire professional photographers or own expensive equipment. Fortunately, several affordable tools available in the market can help you achieve stunning product photography. In this blog post, we’ll cover the top e-commerce product photography tools amateur photographers can use to up their game.

What is E-commerce Product Photography?

E-commerce Product Photography refers to capturing high-quality, detailed, and attractive images of products for online sale. The primary aim is to provide online shoppers with a visual understanding of the product features, design, size, and color, almost as if they were examining it in a physical store.

Superior product photography can significantly impact a customer’s decision-making process, making it a critical aspect of any successful e-commerce business. It is a way to visually communicate the product’s value to potential customers, making it an integral part of the online shopping experience.

Basic E-Commerce Product Photography Tools

Camera and Lenses

No product photography toolkit would be complete without mentioning the camera and lenses. Beginners can start with a basic DSLR or mirrorless camera that offers a manual mode for greater control over settings such as aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. As for lenses, a standard 50mm lens can serve well for most product photography, but you may want to consider getting a macro lens for capturing smaller products or intricate details. Investing in a quality camera and lens can significantly improve your product images, making them more appealing to potential customers.

Tripod

One common problem amateur photographers encounter is shaky hands, resulting in blurry or unfocused images. Investing in a sturdy tripod can solve this issue. Tripods come in various sizes, materials, and prices, and you can choose one based on your budget and product size. A tripod gives you stability while taking pictures and allows you to experiment with different angles and compositions.

A small tripod can enhance your product images even if you use a smartphone to capture them.

LED Lighting

While you can use natural lighting by placing your products near an exterior window, it can’t be relied on (especially at night ). Lighting is key in product photography, and LED lights are an accessible, versatile solution for amateurs and professionals alike.

LED lights offer consistent brightness and a range of color temperatures and are energy efficient. You can get LED light panels or bulbs that screw into a regular lamp. A safe bet is to invest in a couple of LED lights that can dramatically improve the quality of your images, highlighting your product’s features and eliminating unwanted shadows. They’re a cost-effective addition to your product photography tools that can give your images a professional touch.

Tabletop Lightbox

A lightbox is an excellent tool for photographing small to medium-sized products like jewelry, accessories, and electronics. It creates an evenly lit space for your product, enhancing its features and making it stand out. Lightboxes are available in various sizes and can be easily assembled and disassembled, making them ideal for photographers short on space.

Photo Editing Software

No matter how well you click your pictures, flaws and imperfections might need fixing. That’s where photo editing software comes in handy. Several free and paid photo editing software like Adobe Photoshop, Canva, Lightroom, and GIMP allow you to enhance your images’ brightness, clarity, and color. You can also add text, logos, and watermarks to personalize your images.

Please look at some of the apps listed below if you use a phone or tablet to process your images.

White Backgrounds

Clean, white backgrounds are essential for e-commerce product photography. They ensure that your product takes center stage and nothing detracts from its features. You can buy a simple white background cloth or use a white cardboard box to create a DIY background setup that is straightforward and effective.

Smartphone Camera Lenses

Using your phone as your product camera is a good option. Smartphones are ubiquitous and have high-quality cameras that can take decent product photographs. However, attaching external lenses can enhance your smartphone’s camera capabilities. External lenses like fisheye, macro, wide-angle, and telephoto can enhance your images’ depth, clarity, and field of view, giving them a professional touch.

Conclusion

In the rapidly evolving sphere of e-commerce, product photography plays a pivotal role in attracting and persuading potential customers. With the right blend of tools – from lightboxes and tripods to advanced cameras, photo editing software, and lighting solutions – you can significantly enhance the quality of your product images, even on a budget.

Remember, high-quality, detailed, and appealing product images grab online shoppers’ attention and convey your offerings’ value and uniqueness, setting you apart from the competition and driving your e-commerce success.

Whether you’re a beginner or an established player in the online marketplace, investing in these e-commerce product photography tools is a step towards a more thriving and lucrative e-commerce business.

Thanks for reading, and if you want to find out more about product photography for Amazon, Etsy, eBay, or Mercari, please check out the linked articles.

And always, if you want to learn more about photography, check out our Guides section.

How to Photograph Your Product for eCommerce?

Photographing your product for eCommerce involves a few straightforward steps to achieve high-quality results easily.

1. Set Up Your Studio: First, choose a location with ample natural light, or use artificial lighting to your advantage. Set up your lightbox or white background in this space.
2. Position Your Product: Place your product in the middle of your background or lightbox. Ensure it is clean and in its best condition.
3. Set Up Your Camera: Mount your camera or smartphone on a tripod to avoid blur from shaky hands. Adjust the height and distance to suit the size of your product.
4. Experiment with Angles: Try different angles to show the product’s features. Standard angles include front, back, side, top, and a 45-degree angle.
5. Take the Photos: Take your photos, ensuring the product is in focus and the lighting is even. Getting the perfect shot may take multiple tries, so be patient and experiment.
6. Edit Your Photos: Use photo editing software to enhance your images further. Adjust the brightness, clarity, and color, and remove any flaws or distractions.
7. Preview and Upload: Preview your photos on different screens to ensure they look good. Then, upload them to your eCommerce platform, ensuring they are correctly sized and formatted.

Remember, eCommerce’s goal for product photography is to accurately and appealingly represent your product to potential customers. By following these steps, you can achieve professional-grade product photos that can significantly impact your online sales.

Best Apps for Product Photography

There are several apps available to enhance your product photography skills. Here are some of the best ones:

1. Snapseed (iOS/Android): This Google-owned app offers a comprehensive suite of photo editing tools. You can adjust white balance, contrast, saturation, and more. It also provides a selection of filters for quick image transformations and a healing tool to remove unwanted blemishes.
2. Adobe Lightroom CC (iOS/Android): A go-to app for professional photographers, Lightroom CC offers robust editing tools, including preset filters, detailed color correction, and gradient adjustments. The app also syncs with its desktop version, allowing you to continue editing on a larger screen.
3. VSCO (iOS/Android): VSCO is renowned for its classic film-like filters and simple interface. Beyond filters, VSCO offers professional-grade editing tools and a built-in community of photographers to share and discover new work.
4. Afterlight 2 (iOS): A powerful all-in-one app, Afterlight 2 provides a robust set of editing tools, filters, text overlay options, and double exposure ability for creative layering effects. Despite its comprehensive features, the app maintains an intuitive and simple-to-navigate interface.
5. Pixlr (iOS/Android): Pixlr offers over 2 million free effects, overlays, and filter combinations. You can create photo collages with various layout frames and backgrounds, and it also provides an auto-fix feature that balances out colors with a single click.

These apps can help you easily capture visually appealing product photos, enhancing your eCommerce business’s visual content.

The post Create Better E-commerce Product Photography Using These Tools appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

Instagram’s current guidelines for image sizes and aspect ratios are a little hard to track down because the page is no longer in the Help Center’s menu. But just in case you want to see the official info, here’s a direct link.

What Image Sizes Does Instagram Support?

When Instagram launched a decade ago, it only supported a square crop (1:1) image. In the intervening years, it has added support for landscapes (1.91:1) and portrait crops (4:5).

Instagram’s display area for images is 1080 pixels tall, so when you upload an image, the application will scale it to match that height.

Doing a little math shows that the best export settings for Instagram image sizes are:

• 1080px by 1080px (Square) 
• 1080px by 1350px (Portrait) and 
• 1080px by 566px (Landscape)

Preparing Your Images

The first step in exporting an image for Instagram is to crop your images into one of the sizes shown above. To crop the image, you will have to use the cropping tool in your photo editor and create the proper aspect.

Even though you can crop your image when posting on Instagram, I always suggest changing the image in your photo editor. Your editor gives you more control over how the image will be cropped. You can zoom in on the image to see the exact placement of the crop and do some “border patrol” to ensure there are no oddly “cut off” people or elements.

Instagram Crop Formats

So use the editor’s crop tool and set the aspect ratio to one of the following based on how you want your image to be displayed :

• 1:1 – Square
• 4:5 (tall) – Portrait
• 1.9:1 (wide) – Landscape

Tip – In Lightroom, when you set an aspect ratio, the crop will be in the wide mode. The crop will rotate 90 degrees to be in the tall mode by pressing the X key.

Instagram Image Sizes

Once the image is properly cropped, you can then export the image using the pixel with and height settings as shown here:

• 1080px by 1080px (Square) 
• 1080px by 1350px (Portrait) and 
• 1080px by 566px (Landscape)

Most people export to JPG format. Although other formats are supported, JPG is the most widely used for posting to Instagram.

Other Important Settings for Instagram Images

Other settings that are important to set up correctly are the color space, jpg compression, and sharpening.

Color Space

The colors in your digital image are controlled by a standard called the “color space.” There are several common color space standards, but Instagram, like most web-based applications, uses the sRGB colorspace.

If you export with one of the other color space settings (ProPhoto, Adobe, etc.), then the colors displayed in the image will be off in weird ways. So make sure to set the color space to sRGB.

JPG Compression Settings

Another important setting is the JPG compression or quality amount. The best image format for posting images on Instagram is JPG. While other image formats such as PNG, BMP, non-animated GIFs, most photographers tend to work with JPGs.

One of the features of the JPG image type is being able to set the compression level. JPG compression is called lossy compression meaning that the more compressed the image is, the smaller the file is and the lower the visual quality. There is always a temptation to crank the quality up to 100%, but there’s no win going above about 75%. The human eye really can’t see the difference and basically turning compression off creates a huge image file.

The downside to that is if your image size is too large, Instagram will compress it for you anyway using whatever compression setting they want. So, set the image quality/compression to about 75% so you create a reasonably sized file.

Sharpening

The last setting to look at export sharpening. Most image editors have a setting to add some additional sharpening when exporting the photo. Sharpening for the screen is done so that when images are displayed online, at reduced sizes or resolution will still have some pop to them.

I haven’t run too many tests to see how sharpening affects an Instagram photo. My suggestion would be to use the Sharpen for Screen (or Sharpen for Web) setting.

Boosting Instagram Image Quality with this Hack

But (there’s always a but) when you upload an image to Instagram, there still seems to be some image modification or compression. So even paying close attention and uploading with the proper crop settings and pixel sizes, Instagram will still mess with your image quality.

So how do you get around that?

Super Sizing Hack

I’ve seen it suggested that you can get around Instagram’s bad habits by doubling the pixel sizes on your images. By doubling the image’s pixel density, when Instagram’s image sizing algorithm kicks in and shrinks your images, it actually results in a sharper image.

To use a double-sized image for Instagram, the image sizes for posts are:

• 2160px by 2160px (Square) 
• 2160px by 2700px (Portrait) and 
• 2160px by 1132px (Landscape)

I tried this doubling technique as an experiment with the following image of a green heron. I thought that this photo would be a great choice because I could look at the quality in the fine detail of the feathers.

So I made five posts to Instagram and looked for the differences –

1. Standard Crop 1:1, resized to 1080×1080 (native size) #1080×1080
2. Standard Crop 1:1, resized to 2160 x 2160 (double native size – 1080×1080) #2160×2160
3. Portrait Crop 4:5, resized to 1080 x 1350 (native size) #1080×1350
4. Portrait Crop 4:5, resized to 2160 x 2700 (double native size – 1080 x 1350) #2160×2700
5. Landscape Crop 1.9:1, resized to 1080 × 566 (native size) #1080×566
6. Landscape Crop 1.9:1, resized to 2160 × 1132 (double native size – 1080px x566px) #2160×1132

Using my fingers to expand the images on my phone, I was able to see more detail in the double-sized images. So I think there is some truth to this technique, and I’ll be using these values to export my photos for Instagram

An important final note – If your image does not have enough resolution (pixels) to reach the required size (2160px), use the standard sizes. Your images will look like crap if Lightroom enlarges them, and then Instagram squishes them back down.

Conclusion

This quick tip has covered my suggestions for the best export settings for Instagram. While most of my examples are oriented towards exporting from Adobe Lightroom, you should easily be able to adapt these techniques to Photoshop, On-1, Luminar, or any other modern photography management system.

I hope these methods work for you, and I look forward to seeing your awesome posts on Instagram soon. If you have any questions or suggestions, please post a comment below!

For more quick tips and photography guides, check out my Guides Page

These articles will tell you about ways to improve your landscape photos or wildlife lenses.

My Test Posts on Instagram

I posted test images on Instagram. To see them navigate to my feed, https://www.instagram.com/gregc_test/, and search for the tag –

#instagramimagesize

FAQ

What is the optimum size for a Square Instagram Post?

The standard image pixel size for the Square (1:1) crop on Instagram is 1080 x 1080 pixels.
You may be able to enhance the image by using double the pixel density at 2160 x 2160 px –

What is the optimum size for a Portrait Instagram Post?

The standard image pixel size for the Portrait (4:5) crop on Instagram is 1080 x 1350 pixels.
You may be able to enhance the image by using double the pixel density at 2160 x 2700 px –

What is the optimum size for a Landscape Instagram Post?

The standard image pixel size for the Landscape (1.91:1) crop on Instagram is 1080 x 566 pixels.
You may be able to enhance the image by using double the pixel density at 2160 × 1132 px –

Where To Find More Info

Mango Street over on YouTube has a quick tutorial on exporting to Instagram from Lightroom. They don’t cover the double image size, but their vid is excellent at quickly covering the basics.

The post The Best Export Settings For Instagram Revisited For 2023 appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

What is bird photography, and how do you get started

The great thing about birding and bird photography is that you can find birds anywhere. But we all know that some places are better for bird photography than others. Parks, nature preserves, and wetlands are all great places to find birds as they create an environment where birds can find food, water, and shelter. So visiting your local park can offer plenty of opportunities for taking photos of different species in their natural habitat.

You don’t have to be an expert birder to discover where birds hang out. As you become more adept at birding, you can study the specific needs of the bird you are looking for. However, when starting out, you just need to know that birds tend to stay in places where they can easily find food, water, and shelter. So look for open fields next to trees or shrubbery, bird feeders, or the edge of a pond or lake – these locations provide the basics many species of birds are looking for.

How to photograph birds in their natural habitat

When photographing birds in their natural habitat, try to get close without disturbing them. Be patient and wait for the bird to get used to you. It may take a few tries, but you can find ways to work with the birds with practice.

To get started, find an area where you know birds are likely to be found, such as a park, nature preserve, or wetlands. Try to locate an open space near trees or shrubbery, bird feeders, or the edge of a pond or lake – these locations provide the basics many species of birds are looking for.

Be patient and wait for the bird to become used to your presence. Once you’ve located a bird, take your time getting into position and framing your shot. If possible, try to get close without disturbing the bird. If the bird is too far away, consider using a telephoto lens to get closer.

If you’re having trouble getting close enough, try using a blind or hide to conceal yourself from the bird, or stay in your car and roll the window down just enough to point your camera at the subject. This will allow you to get closer without scaring it away. Remember always to respect the bird’s natural habitat and never disturb or harass them.

How to photograph birds in flight

When photographing birds in flight, it’s important to have a fast shutter speed to capture the bird’s motion. You’ll also need a good telephoto lens to get close to the bird. Your goal in bird photography is to get the head and eyes focused and well-lit.

When taking photos of birds in flight, it’s important to have a fast shutter speed to capture the bird’s motion. A good starting point is 1/1000th of a second, but you can use even faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur. With most modern digital cameras, you can set the mode to shutter priority (S), and then the camera will automatically adjust the ISO and aperture to accommodate the fast shutter speed.

Always keep the bird in the center of your frame when tracking a bird in flight. This will help keep the focus on the bird and not the background. If you lose track of the bird, wait for it to come back into your field of view and then resume tracking.

When capturing bird photos, always try to have the sun behind you. Doing this will ensure the side of the bird facing you will be illuminated. You can also try to capture the bird with the sun behind it, creating a silhouette

Pay attention to the background

The background can make or break your bird images. A cluttered or bright background will create poor results.

If there are a lot of trees or brush in the background, try setting the lens’ aperture very wide (f/4.5 or wider) so that background has a soft focus. The most eye-catching bird photos will have colorful blurred backgrounds.

What equipment do you need for bird photography

You’ll need a camera that can zoom in close to get started in bird photography. Since birds are very “flighty”, anytime you get near them, they will take flight and give you a good chance to get a lot of bird butt images.

A telephoto lens is best for getting close to birds without disturbing them. Using a 200mm or 300mm lens is a good starting point, but a longer lens will give you even more reach if you can afford it.

You can read my Wildlife Photography Lens guide to look at telephoto options.

If you can’t use a telephoto lens or don’t have the extra cash needed for that investment, look at the many small compact digital cameras with excellent zoom capabilities. These are great options to use when getting started.

In addition to a telephoto lens, you’ll also need a tripod or monopod to keep your camera steady when zooming in. These are great for birds perched in trees or in a fairly static location.

When capturing images of birds in flight, you can opt for a telephoto camera strap (aka sling). These allow more flexibility and range of motion while using your body as the stabilizing element. A strap will never offer the same stability as a tripod, but it allows you to react quickly to a bird’s motion.

Other “Good To Have” birding equipment

Binoculars

Some other things I find quite handy in the field are a pair of binoculars and a good bird reference guide. Look for a lightweight pair that you can easily keep in your coat pocket, so it doesn’t tangle with your camera gear.

I like to use binoculars to locate and identify birds. If you don’t have binoculars, you can use your camera and telephoto lens, but I find it much more flexible to break out the binos when I’m trying to locate birds in the field.

I use the Nikon Trailblazer because they are compact, light, and powerful enough to spot birds far away.

Field guides

A birding guide is very helpful when you are getting started and trying to learn which birds you are photographing. You don’t always need to bring it into the field with you, but make sure to use it when you get home and want to identify the birds you photographed.

When choosing a field guide, start with one specific to your area. We’ve used the “Birds of Michigan” field guide for years. This book uses a handy color system to locate and identify the species in your area quickly. Use this link to find one for your state or region.

Birding apps

Personally, in addition to using a field guidebook, I love using the Merlin app on my phone. I can load up the image I captured, and the app quickly identifies matches for the birds in the photo. You can also use it to capture the birdsongs around you and show what birds are there.

5 Tips for getting great bird photos

As a wrap-up, there are a few key things to keep in mind when trying to take great bird photos. Here are a few tips to help you get started:

1. Use a fast shutter speed to capture the bird’s motion.
2. Always try to have the sun behind you.
3. Pay attention to the background and ensure it is not too cluttered or busy.
4. Use a telephoto lens for close-ups, and if you can’t use one, try using a camera with good zoom capability.
5. When capturing bird images in flight, use a telephoto camera strap for more flexibility.

As always, thanks for reading, and I hope you have a lot of fun learning how to photograph birds. I find it a great opportunity to get out and enjoy nature, learn about birds and their habits, and keep improving my photography skills.

If you have any questions or comments, please leave a message below.

If you want to see more guides, check out the Guides section of my site.

Finally, the Birding E-book

One of the basic skills of becoming a good bird photographer is to have a solid foundation in bird watching (or birding) skills. I’m a long-time admirer of the skills of a fellow photographer (and techie) Chuq Von Rospach. He’s put together an excellent basic birding skills ebook called “Hints and Tips for the New Birder“. Chuq is an excellent writer and photographer, and I encourage you to head to his site and check out his other Ebooks and photos.

The post Improve Your Photos With Practical Birding Basics – Plus Free Ebook appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

Anyone can take a great picture with the proper knowledge and practice. It can be pretty disheartening never to seem to “get it right” when all you want to do is shoot better photos. Rather than thinking that better equipment will improve your photos, take the time to learn the techniques that every professional photographer knows.

Here are five simple tips to help you shoot better photos:

Learn your camera’s different features and how to use them.

Your camera has features and settings you probably never knew were important or quickly forgot about after first reviewing the manual. It’s good to see where the more sophisticated options are and how to utilize them. But, more importantly, learn how to use the basic features to take great photos without all the bells and whistles.

It’s easy to find free online tutorials about your camera and how to set it up for the type of photography you are interested in. Once you are familiar with the settings, you can activate the advanced features when you need them.

Most modern cameras have a memory mode where you can store a configuration for a specific way of shooting (e.g. wildlife, street, or portraiture). This feature ensures you can quickly activate the correct settings when the occasion arises.

Use a faster shutter speed to remove blur.

Many people blame their camera’s autofocus system when images come out blurry. However, it’s often not the camera’s fault. Instead, camera motion is the culprit most of the time! When you hand-hold a camera, any shake in your hands (or even the movement of pressing the shutter) can cause the image to come out blurry. The best way around this is to increase the shutter speed.

Even with the magic of in-camera image stabilization, you should always try to use the correct shutter speed for your lens. The best shutter speed will be based on the lens’s focal length. The most straightforward formula for shutter speed is 1/focal length. For example, if your lens is 100mm, never shoot at less than 1/100th of a second.

Study other photographers’ work and find inspiration.

One of the best ways to improve your photography is to see what other photographers are doing. Look for inspiration in magazines, online, and even in books. When you find a photo you like, take some time to figure out why it works so well. Is it the composition? The lighting? The subject matter? Once you know what makes a good photo, you can start incorporating those elements into your work.

Of course, you don’t want to copy other photographers’ work exactly. That’s not how you find your style. But when you see a photo that speaks to you, take time to analyze it and learn from it.

Additionally, it would help if you looked at the work of great painters. Many of the same principles that apply to photography also apply to painting. Composition, lighting, and color are all essential elements in both art forms.

Take online or offline courses to improve your skills.

Many great resources are available to help you improve your photography skills. You can find online courses, eBooks, and even YouTube videos that can teach you everything from the basics of photography to more advanced concepts.

If you want a more structured learning experience, community colleges, adult education programs, and private businesses offer many excellent offline courses. These courses can be a great way to learn from a professional photographer and get feedback on your work.

Remember to practice every day!

You won’t get better at photography if you don’t practice. Set aside time each day to shoot something, even if it’s just 10 minutes. It doesn’t matter what you shoot. Just get out there and take photos. As you practice, you’ll start to see your skills improve.

And don’t forget to have fun! Photography should be enjoyable, so make sure you take photos of things that interest you. The more passion you have for your subject matter, your photos will be better.

Conclusion

Photography is all about uniquely capturing the world, so find your style and have fun with it! You can shoot better photos today with practice and some simple tips. These five tips will help you get started, but don’t forget to experiment and find what works best for you.

Once you are comfortable with your camera and settings, take the time to relax and enjoy the art – check out my article on the Zen of Rural Photography for how to enjoy seeing the world. Also, don’t forget to look everywhere for compositions.

If you find these quick tips interesting, make sure to take a look at our other photography guides.

The post 5 Simple Tips to Help You Shoot Better Photos appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

What are Lightroom Presets?

Lightroom Presets are a set of editing instructions that you can apply to your photos with just a few clicks. They are used to achieve various looks, from vintage to black and white, and they can help you save time by not having to edit each photo manually.

Using Presets to Create Style

Presets are available for all versions of Adobe Lightroom. The format of the preset file can be different between the CC and Classic application versions, but once installed, they function the same.

In Lightroom Classic, installed Presets are listed in the left panel. In Lightroom (CC), the Presets are accessed by clicking the Presets button on the edit panel. And finally, in Lightroom Mobile, Presets are shown by pressing the Presets button in the right icon menu.

For installing Presets in each application, see the sections below – Installing Presets in Lightroom (CC), Installing Presets in Lightroom Classic, and Installing Presets in Lightroom Mobile.

If you want to take a deep dive into Lightroom Presets, you can read through Adobe’s online help manual.

How to Install Lightroom Presets in Lightroom (CC)

In Adobe Lightroom (CC) version 1.3 or later, it’s very easy to install Presets. These instructions work the same on Mac and Windows desktop machines. If you are using the Mobile version, see the instructions below.

Steps to install a Preset in Lightroom CC –

1. Download the preset files to your computer. The files will be in either xmp, lrtemplate, or zip file format. You can import the zip files directly, but extracting the files from the zip archive is safer and only installs what you need.
2. Open Lightroom CC and select the edit icon in the right menu. The edit icon looks like three sliders.
3. At the top of the edit screen, you will see a button labeled Presets. Click this button to access the Presets panel.
4. Click three dots at the top of the panel between the + and the x to get to the settings panel.
5. In the dropdown menu, select Import Presets.
6. Navigate to the folder where you downloaded the presets, select the preset files you want to use, and press the Import button.
7. The imported Presets will be listed in the Presets panel.

How to Install Lightroom Presets in Lightroom Classic

Installing Presets in Lightroom Classic version 7.3 or later is very similar to the CC version.

Steps to install a Preset in Lightroom Classic –

1. Download the preset files to your computer. The files will be in either xmp, lrtemplate, or zip file format. You can import the zip files directly, but extracting the files from the zip archive is safer and only installs what you need.
2. Open Lightroom Classic and enter the Develop module by clicking on Develop or pressing the “d” key.
3. In the left panel, you will see a section labeled Presets. Click the plus (‘+’) to the label’s right.
4. Select “Import Presets…” from the dropdown panel.
5. Navigate to the folder where you downloaded the Presets, select the preset files you want to use, and press the Import button.
6. The imported Presets will be listed in the Presets panel.

How to install Lightroom Mobile Presets

Lightroom Mobile does not support importing Presets. There are ways to do it, but they are not very easy. The easiest way to get Presets into Lightroom Mobile is to install the preset using Lightroom CC and let Creative Cloud sync the preset over to the mobile app.

One advantage the Lightroom CC and Mobile have over Lightroom Classic is the Recommended Presets tab. LIghtroom’s intelligent search will try to match your image with its library of presets. Lightroom will suggest interesting looks for your image. It’s a great way to experiment with your photo’s look.

Where to Find Lightroom Presets

Even though Lightroom comes preloaded with dozens of Presets, it’s worthwhile going out and looking at effects developed by other creatives. There are so many great looks that are specific to every photography topic, from landscape to infant photography. When you start to develop your photographic “style”, it helps to experiment with Presets from other photographers.

When it comes to finding Lightroom Presets, there are so many places that you can look. One option is to purchase them from a website or online store. This is a great option if you know exactly what you’re looking for and you’re willing to spend a bit of money to get it. Another benefit is that when you buy a preset, or preset pack, the author will almost always help you get it installed or troubleshoot issues with their product.

Some of my favorite places to find Lightroom Presets are –

• Envato Elements
• Etsy
• Adobe Creative Cloud

Once you find or purchase the Preset, you will download a Preset file or a zip archive. These files are meant to be installed via the installation tools in Lightroom. The previous sections covered installing in Lightroom and Lightroom Classic.

Sometimes instead of a Preset, you will receive a source image (dng) file. If this is the case then the Lightroom edit settings are encapsulated in the image. In this case, you create a preset using the “create preset” function in your version of Lightroom. This is the same as making your own Preset covered below.

Where to Find Free Lightroom Presets

One of the best places to find free Presets is in the Adobe Creative Cloud library. They have a dedicated page to highlight free Presets for Lightroom.

Another great resource for free Lightroom Presets is the site PresetLove. They are a professional source for Presets and you can check out their free downloads for a variety of photographic styles.

Making Your Own Presets

Creating your own Presets is an essential part of an efficient workflow process. If you are working on multiple images for the same project, portfolio, or event, then it’s important that they all use the same styling and tone. This is where creating your own Presets really comes in handy.

Since a preset is essentially the current edit settings on the active image, saving that work and then applying it to additional images is a great time saver. When creating a preset, you can choose if you want to save all of the edit settings, or just some of them. This way you can save just the tone and color settings, but leave out any masking, or detail adjustments.

To create a preset, bring up the preset menu using the same steps used while importing. But instead of selecting Import Preset, select Create Preset.

When the create preset dialog box appears, enter a name for your preset. Then select which aspects of the current image you want to be saved in the preset.

Once you are OK with the settings, just press the create button. Your preset will now be listed under the Presets pane and can be used to create the look on other images.

For more detailed information on creating Presets, take a look at Adobe’s Help Site.

Conclusion

In this article, we discussed how to install Lightroom Presets. We showed you how to do it on both Lightroom CC and Lightroom Classic. We also provided helpful tips on finding the perfect Presets for your photography style. With these tips, you should be able to find Presets for your needs and install them easily.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment below! And as always, thanks for reading!

If you are looking to learn more about using Lightroom, check out my Lightroom For New Photographers tutorial.

For more interesting photography information, check out my other guides.

The post Lightroom Presets Explained And The Best Places To Download Some appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

Another factor that makes having multiple versions of Lightroom on the market is that Adobe keeps changing the names of the products. With the most recent name change of Lightroom CC to just Lightroom, Adobe has shown that it seems to favor the cloud-based version over Classic. Though Adobe says it has no plans to stop developing Lightroom Classic, you have to wonder. However, for now, with Classic’s capabilities still ahead of Lightroom (CC)’s, they both have a strong future.

Let’s dive into where each one shines. Since the two programs share most of the editing features, I’ll focus on their differences and how they will affect your work.

Overview of Lightroom Classic Features

Lightroom Classic is a traditional desktop-based application. When you use Classic, your images are stored on your computer’s hard drives or local storage devices. Accessing your images is very fast, and the storage space is only limited by the capacity of the drives attached to your computer.

All images imported into Lightroom Classic stay on your computer. No data is uploaded to the internet unless you specify that the images should be synced to your Creative Cloud account. This means that even if your computer is not connected to the internet, you will be able to browse, edit, and save your images.

Studio Support

Classic supports tethering capture with certain camera bodies. Tethering connects your camera directly to a computer. It allows you to see a live view from the camera, control the camera settings, and capture and import images directly from the camera during a photo session. This is a high-end feature but very handy when doing portrait sittings, macro, or still-life projects.

Plugin Support

Another advantage to Lightroom Classic is that it supports plugin architecture. Plugins allow developers to create connections between Lightroom and external applications and publishing services. Without plugins, Lightroom would be limited to external tools that Adobe supports.

Lightroom Classic is highly extensible. Its plug-in architecture allows third-party developers to create a huge variety of plug-ins that let you add new features and capabilities to the already rich Lightroom Classic toolset.

Adobe

One more thing… Lightroom Classic supports multiple Virtual Copies of images. Virtual Copies are used to develop and save different ‘looks’ for the same image. What this means is that you can edit the same image multiple times to create the best look or come back at a later time and start over without losing the original edits.

Overview of Lightroom (CC) Features

Adobe Lightroom (CC) is a cloud-based application. Its features and catalog are accessed using a desktop, mobile, or web-based interface. When you use Lightroom (CC), your images are stored in a cloud-based storage area attached to your Creative Cloud account. Syncing your images and updates is done automatically, and all your activities are stored in the cloud.

This keeps your work safe from data loss caused by the loss, failure, or damage to your computing device. It also means that your images are available to any Lightroom (CC) installation on your account.

Lightroom (CC)’s tool layout has a modern feel. The adjustment tools have been rearranged and organized by type of adjustment. This will help users learn how to use Lightroom and develop long-term editing workflows.

Additionally, Lightroom (CC) has added hover-over help icons that explain each tool and how it’s used. This great new feature will help users quickly learn the best way to use the application.

The catalog search in Lightroom (CC)’s is powered by Adobe Sensei, a cloud-based, machine-learning technology in many Adobe products. Sensei allows you to search for terms like “cat”, “boat”, “beach”, or “Mount Rushmore”. Image recognition will locate images in the catalog that match those terms, even if the images are not tagged. Sensei is not 100% perfect, but it will get better over time.

Lightroom Versions Comparison

From what you’ve seen in the previous sections, the main difference between the applications is where the data and code “live” and how they interact with services.

Lightroom (CC) is a cloud-based application with all its storage and functionality based on internet-connected services. On the other hand, Lightroom Classic performs all of its work on your local hardware.

Lightroom Classic will be limited by the power and capacity of your computer and Lightroom (CC) will be limited by your connectivity and connection speed to the internet.

An important aspect of local vs. cloud computing is to take into account the size of your image files. If you are working with 5 MB jpg files, the delay in working with the cloud-based system is not much of a factor.

However, as you work with the larger image files created by better camera sensors, you will see a huge delay in importing, accessing, and saving your files. The files created by my camera run 43MB each, and newer cameras will easily double that. Even with a good internet connection, you could be spending a lot of time waiting for the Develop module to startup.

So Which Lightroom Version Should I Use?

If you’re using a DSLR or Mirrorless camera and have a laptop or desktop computer, I recommend using Lightroom Classic. Also, if you are most comfortable using a traditional computer, keyboard, and mouse (or tablet) to interact with your art, start with Lightroom Classic. It’s the most straightforward version to use, and it has the most features.

If your photography is more smartphone (iPhone or Android) based, I’d suggest going with Lightroom (CC). I would also suggest Lightroom (CC) if you want to be able to edit your images anywhere (I’ve edited a landscape shoot from my iPad on a plane).

Finally, it depends on what you want to do with your finished images. Lightroom CC’s features are a great fit if you are strictly social media-based. However, if you want to print your images or want to be able to use third-party editors or filters, then you will want to start with Lightroom Classic.

The editing capabilities for all of the versions are practically identical. There are still a few of Classic’s features absent from the Lightroom (CC) versions:

• no plugin support
• no support for external hardware (e.g., camera tethering, Wacom tablets, etc.)
• no modules for generating slideshows, books, or web galleries
• no smart collections

And remember, just because you start in one version of Lightroom does not stop you from installing and using the other. You can have both Lightroom CC and Lightroom Classic installed on one computer. You can also use Classic on your computer and sync some images to the cloud to edit in CC. It really is one big happy Lightroom Family, after all.

In my case, I’m used to using my desktop computer so my preference is to use Lightroom Classic with sync enabled. I have Creative Cloud sync enabled, so I can easily transfer and edit photos in Lightroom Mobile on my iPad using the Apple Pencil.

Review

Overall, there are some key differences between Lightroom Classic and Lightroom CC. The most important thing to consider when deciding which version to use is what you need the application to do for you.

• If your style needs an edit anywhere anytime application, where all the storage and functionality is based on internet-connected services, then go with Lightroom CC.
• If you use a DSLR or Mirrorless camera and have a laptop or desktop computer, I recommend using Lightroom Classic. It has the most features and is the most straightforward version to use.
• If your photography is more smartphone (iPhone or Android) based, Lightroom CC will be the better choice.

I hope this helped clear up the confusion around which Lightroom version you should use. If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment below, and I’ll do my best to answer them.

If you are a new photographer and are looking to learn about using Lightroom for post-processing, then take a look at my Lightroom Tutorial for New Photographers

For more information on photography and techniques, head to the Guides Section.

Thanks for reading! If you have any questions, please ask away in the comments below.

How Much Does Lightroom Cost?

Lightroom is not available as a standalone application for your computer. Adobe’s subscription model starts at $9.99 monthly or roughly $120 yearly. I know this seems like a lot. But I think it’s a deal based on what you get and how expensive the standalone licenses used to cost.

Adobe offers three different subscription plans for photographers:

1) Photography Plan with 20GB cloud storage – $9.99 per month

This plan includes Photoshop, Lightroom Classic, and Lightroom. It is perfect if you intend to use Lightroom and Photoshop. You can activate and remain signed in to the app(s) on up to two computers. The limitation is that you can only be active on one computer at a time.

2) Photography Plan with 1TB cloud storage – $19.98

Same as the base Photography Plan with both Lightroom versions and Photoshop, but with 1TB cloud storage included. You’ll need this plan if you intend to use Lightroom CC heavily and will be storing all your images in the cloud. Tip – You can start with the 20GB version and upgrade to this one when you need extra storage.

3) Lightroom only with 1TB cloud storage – $9.99

This is a good plan if you only want to use Lightroom CC. It costs the same as the basic Photography Plan and includes 1TB of cloud storage. The drawback is that you do not get access to Lightroom Classic or Photoshop.

Tip – You can get a 70% discount if you’re a student or a teacher. See Adobe for details.

Is There a Free Version of Lightroom?

Yes, there is. You can download and use Lightroom Mobile (aka Lightroom for mobile – Adobe has to get these naming changes ironed out) for free on your Apple or Android phone or tablet. It can be used as a stand-alone editor on your mobile device and does not require a license. The application’s capture, organization, and sharing capabilities and many editing tools are free to use.

If used with a Creative Cloud Photography subscription, Lightroom Mobile also lets you sync your images to all of your other Creative Cloud applications. It also enables Sensei search, the healing brush, selective adjustments, and several other advanced tools.

The History of Adobe Lightroom

Lightroom was created in 2007 by Adobe Systems. It was designed as a digital workflow application for photographers, allowing them to edit, organize, and share photos from a single program. The first version of Lightroom, also known as Lightroom 1, was released as a public beta on Mac OS and Windows.

Lightroom quickly grew in popularity among photographers owing to its numerous features, such as non-destructive editing, tonal editing, local filter adjustments, and a user-customizable interface. Because of its popularity, Lightroom soon became one of Adobe’s flagship products.

In 2015, Adobe released Lightroom version 6, the last version of Lightroom that supported a perpetual (one-time purchase) license model. Switching to a subscription model caused some concerns at the time. These concerns were met with continuous feature improvements that kept Lightroom as a premiere photographic application.

In 2017, Adobe released Lightroom CC, a cloud-based version of Lightroom. This version of Lightroom was designed for users who wanted to access their photos from anywhere and share them with others.

At first Lightroom CC’s feature set was limited but as newer versions were released, its capabilities are more in line with Lightroom Classic.

For a complete list of each version and when major features were introduced, Wikipedia has an up-to-date Lightroom reference page.

In 2009, Adobe released Lightroom version 3, which added support for video files, tethered shooting, and new camera Raw formats. This version was the first to contain built-in lens correction and perspective control.

The next major release was Lightroom version 4 in 2012, which added support for photo book creation and the map (GPS) module. It also introduced highlight and shadow recovery sliders to bring out the details in an image’s darkest and lightest areas.

In 2015, Adobe released Lightroom version 6, which was the last version of Lightroom that supported a perpetual (one-time purchase) license model. This version included tools for merging multiple images into HDR or Panoramic pictures

The post Lightroom Mobile Vs. Classic – Practical Tips On The Best Version appeared first on Croasdill Photography.

People new to digital photo editing (or the Digital Darkroom) can be intimidated by complex applications like Lightroom. However, the skills you need to succeed are truly straightforward and easy to understand.

This guide will teach you some basics of the Lightroom beginner workflow. We’ll go into importing images, essential editing adjustments, and wrap up how to export your updated images. You’ll also learn tips on using Lightroom’s different features to get the most out of your photos. So if you’re ready to take your photography to the next level, read on!

What is Lightroom, and What Can it do for Photographers?

Lightroom is a software program for photo editing (also known as post-processing). Post-processing is the work you do to make an image look more like how you remember the scene – to add emotion and tell the story. This is done by modifying the image’s crop, tone, and presence so that the person viewing the image understands what you want to show.

A huge advantage to using Lightroom to process your photos is that all of the edits you do are “non-destructive”. That means you make changes to your photos without modifying the original file. Lightroom does this by saving all of the modifications to your photographs in a separate file. The original images stay unmodified. This way, you can “roll back” some or all of your changes at any time, create a new copy, and start over with different changes.

Another great advantage that Lightroom has over other photo editing tools is its integrated catalog. The catalog incorporated into the application means you have a built-in tool to organize your image library. Before I started using Lightroom, I couldn’t tell you the number of times that I had a panic attack thinking I’d lost an image. But now, with all my images tracked by a catalog, I only have to use Lightroom’s search tool to quickly locate a photo.

Lightroom Versions

This can be confusing, but there are three different versions of Lightroom –

• Lightroom Classic (desktop)
• Lightroom CC (cloud-based)
• Lightroom Mobile (cloud-based)

The most significant difference between the applications is where the images are stored. The Classic version saves the images to your computer’s drive, whereas the CC and Mobile versions store their photos in Adobe’s Creative Cloud cloud storage service.

Fortunately, Lightroom Classic does have an option to sync selected images with Creative Cloud, so you can quickly transfer and edit your photos to all three versions.

Basics Which Version of Lightroom Should I Use?

If you’re just getting started using a DSLR or Mirrorless camera and have a laptop or desktop computer, I recommend using Lightroom Classic. It’s the most straightforward version to use, and it has the most features. If your photography is more smartphone (iPhone or Android) based, I’d suggest going with Lightroom CC.

The editing capabilities for all of the versions are practically identical. There are still a few of Classic’s features absent from the CC & Mobile versions, but most users won’t miss them:

• no plugin support
• no support for external hardware (e.g., camera tethering, Wacom tablets, etc.)
• no modules for generating slideshows, books, or web galleries
• no smart collections

In my case, I’m used to using my desktop computer, so my preference is to use Lightroom Classic with sync enabled. I have Creative Cloud sync enabled, so I can easily transfer and edit photos in Lightroom Mobile on my iPad using the Apple Pencil.

For more information, I take a deeper dive into the differences between Lightroom CC and Classic in this article.

Do I Have to Use Photoshop too?

No, Photoshop is a separate program that brings many more capabilities to your digital darkroom, but for beginners, Lightroom is powerful enough for most tasks.

Using Lightroom Classic

Lightroom Classic’s application interface is divided into seven modules: Library, Develop, Map, Book, Slideshow, Print, and Web. Most of the activity of post-processing takes place in the Library and Develop modules, so we’ll focus on those in this article. The other five are pretty useful, and we can cover those at a later time. For now, here’s a quick overview of the modules.

The Library Module

The main focus of the Library module is to import and manage your photos. It is where you do keyword tagging, sorting, and organization of the images in the catalog.

Across the bottom of the screen, Lightroom shows all the images in the currently selected folder. On the left, you will see panels for Navigator, Catalog, and Folders. On the right, you will see the details of the currently selected image.

The Develop Module

The Develop module is where you edit photos. The image is displayed in the middle of the screen. As the image is edited, you can see your changes reflected in real time. Any modifications you make to the image are stored in the catalog and will be applied the next time you edit the photo.

Across the bottom of the screen, Lightroom shows all the images in the currently selected folder. On the left, you will see panels for Navitagor, Presets, Snapshots, History, and Collections. On the right, you will see panels of the image’s histogram followed by all the editing tools (all the fun stuff happens here).

The Map Module

The Map module is where you can add GPS information to your images. I honestly don’t use this module very often, as there is rarely a case where I want to share the location of an image. That being said, the interface is relatively straightforward. You use the module to search for a location on the map (similar to Google Maps) and drag one or more images onto the map. The GPS coordinates for the image are then set to that location.

The Book Module

The Book module allows you to layout books for print. I have experimented with this capability a little and talked with other photographers that I’ve used it, which seems pretty nifty. You use this module to lay out photography books or wedding albums with photos and text. When you are done with the layout, you can print it as a PDF or send it off to Blurb to be published. I’ll cover this in a future article.

The Slideshow Module

The Slideshow module is handy. It allows you to create standalone slideshows from your library, attach music, do crossfades, etc. Then export it to an MP4 video that can be played on most media devices. It’s great for showing an event recap or displaying your portfolio. More on this module later as well.

The Print Module

The Print module is used to print your images on a photo printer. I use this quite a bit, and it is pretty complex and beyond what I will cover in this article. Again, I’ll do a whole post (or multiple posts) on this soon.

The Web Module

The Web module in Lightroom Classic lets you create web-based “photo galleries”. It will generate an HTML page of thumbnail versions of images with links to larger versions of the photos. After you finish your gallery, export the files to your computer and then upload the gallery to a web server.

I don’t use this module at all. I honestly don’t see the point of it.

How to Use Lightroom Classic

Now that you know what Lightroom is, which version you should use, and have it installed – let’s take a look at how to use it. (Check out this quick tutorial if you need help installing any of the versions).

There are three primary activities you will need to learn to use Lightroom well, and they are very easy to learn:

1. Importing
2. Editing
3. Exporting/Printing

I’ll cover the basics of these actions below using Lightroom Classic and will go over them in-depth in future articles. But for now, let’s just cover the basic activities.

How to Import Images into Lightroom Classic

Importing is how you get images into Lightroom’s catalog. The process of importing copies of your pictures from a camera’s SD card to your computer’s disk and registering the location of your image files with the catalog.

Note – If your computer does not have an SD card reader, you might be able to connect your camera directly to your computer using a USB cable. If that’s not an option, you can easily get an external USB SD card reader and connect it to your computer.

Here are some great readers from Anker that I use –
SD Card Reader for USB-A
SD Card Reader for USB-C

The catalog contains the image’s file name and details, a thumbnail, and the changes you make to the images. It’s important to know that the images are not stored in the catalog. They will always remain on the disk in their original form.

Tip – It’s important not to move the images once imported. Lightroom will lose track of the original. If you need to move files, you can do it from Lightroom’s Library folder view, something I’ll also cover in a later article.

When Lightroom Classic is running, the application monitors your computer for memory (SD) cards. When one is detected, the application automatically goes into import mode. If it doesn’t do this for you, select the Library module from the top menu and then click the Import button in the lower-left corner of the screen.

The import screen will show all of the images on the SD card. It allows you to select all or some photos to import into the catalog.

Once your selection is complete, click the Import button on the lower left. Lightroom will process the selected images, copy them to your computer’s drive, and register them in the catalog.

Lightroom Import Settings

You have some choices regarding how Lightroom will process the imported images. The checkboxes and settings in the right panel should be set to –

• Build Previews – standard
• Build Smart Previews – checked
• Don’t Import Suspected Duplicates – checked
• Make a Second Copy To – unchecked ( this is something we will cover later)
• Rename Files – unchecked
• Keywords – A comma-separated set of keywords to use for these images
• Destination Organize – By date
• Date Format – 2022/2022-06-22 (this will make a new sub folder based on the date the image was taken)
• Then select the folder you will always use to put your images under ( for me that’s /greg/pictures )

Import Settings

Note – This is the one place where Lightroom may alter your images. If you are shooting in RAW format (and I recommend using RAW), Lightroom will translate the image to a DNG format. The reason for this is that since every camera manufacturer uses its own proprietary RAW image format, Adobe wants to change them to DNG for future compatibility. There’s a fair bit of debate about this but just go with it when starting out. I’ll discuss this later.

How to Organize Images in Lightroom

As a beginner learning the Lightroom basics, I suggest you keep to one catalog and one location on your hard disk. Then, as shown above, import the images into a file structure arranged by date. This is the most straightforward strategy to organize your photos.

In another article, I will expand on the possible strategies for using –

• multiple catalogs
• multiple disks
• folders by event/customer name

But for now, KISS – don’t try to get too complex when learning a new tool.

Note – I’m still keeping it simple and have 87,000 + images in my only catalog. I don’t worry about it because Lightroom automatically makes weekly backups of the catalog. Additionally, I back the catalog up to the cloud. So if anything ever happens to my computer, I can download the catalog and restore my image updates.

Using Lightroom’s Library Module

I’ve already covered one of the primary operations in the Library module, importing and organizing images. The other main use of the Library is to locate the photos you want to work with.

There are two main ways to locate images. The first is using the “Previous Import” item in the catalog panel. Clicking on this will show all the pictures in the last import. The other method uses the Folders panel to locate the image by its location. Selecting any folder will display all the images in that folder and any subfolders.

You can also use the search tool to locate an image by name (or any text field in its metadata) or attribute (e.g., stars, flags, keywords). This can be handy when you start adding keywords, titles, and descriptions to your photos.

Once a set of images is displayed, select it by clicking on it or bring it to single image mode by double-clicking it. You can always get back to the Library grid by typing “g” on the keyboard or clicking on Library in the menu.

When an image is selected, you can see all the metadata on the right. There’s a whole load of info here, and we can dive into it in another post.

Now that you have an image selected, it’s time to move into the fun stuff.

Tip – In any of Lightroom’s modules, you can hide the left, right, or bottom sidebars by clicking on the little triangle next to it on the edge of the screen. This will give you more “screen real estate” to work on your images. Hovering over the triangle will make the sidebar temporarily appear. Clicking it again will restore the sidebar.

Using Lightroom’s Development Module

Once you select an image, the Develop module is where you do all of your photo editing. You access the Development module by pressing “d” on the keyboard or clicking on Development in the menu.

I will take you through a simplified version of my editing process for Lightroom Basics. I try to start working on global changes and then work on local adjustments.

Here’s the order to work in –

• Lens Corrections
• Crop and Straighten
• Basic Edits

Tip – You can press the “\” (forward slash) key at any time in the development module to toggle seeing the original image. Additionally, you can press the “f” to see the image in full-screen mode. These are great ways to review how your edit is coming along.

Lens Corrections

When making your first edits to an image, it’s important to jump down to the Lens Corrections panel and ensure that both Remove Chromatic Aberration and Enable Profile Correction are checked. These tools do some major magic for your image.

Remove Chromatic Aberration, removes any green or purple fringing around the contrasty edges in your image. These colors can be caused by poor lens quality or shooting into bright areas. CA is a visual distraction, and this tool pretty much removes it with one click.

Enable Profile Correction adjusts the distortions caused by different lenses. Lightroom will look at the lens metadata in the image, locate corrections needed, and apply them. Again, one easy click to remove a visual annoyance.

Tip – If you want to see how these tools changed the image, just click on the toggle to the left of the title to turn the tool on and off. On some lenses, it’s a significant change!

Cropping Images in Lightroom

It’s best in Lightroom to get basic cropping and straightening done at the beginning. That way, you won’t be working on parts of the image that are not part of the final work.

Enter the crop tool by clicking on the crop icon (looks like a box with arrows next to it). When cropping, you can use your mouse to change the outer edge of the image area to reduce what will be shown in the final photo.

You can also straighten it manually. By moving the mouse to the right or left of the image, you will see the cursor change to the rotation tool. Holding the mouse button will let you rotate the image to ensure that any strong lines (horizons, trees, edge of walls, etc.) are truly horizontal or vertical.

To apply any changes to the Crop or Straighten tools, just hit the return key or press the Done button

Basic Edits

The first panel in the Develop module is the histogram. This shows a graph of the image’s tonal range from black on the left to white on the right. For beginning users, it’s a great way to see if you have any “blown-out” highlights or shadows. Blown-out is when all color is lost in a part of the image and is simply all black or white. Keep an eye on the histogram as we work down the editing sliders. You’ve probably moved a slider too far if you see the graph all bunched up on one side.

All the adjustments in the Lightroom Basics panel are made using simple sliders. To use them, moving left lowers the value and to the right increases it. Double-clicking on the slide’s name will reset the value to the center.

And just like on any modern editor, you can also undo any action by pressing cmd/ctrl-Z

Updating White Balance

White balance sets the warm or cool tone of the colors. I suggest setting this to Auto from the drop-down for most situations. If you want to try it manually, you can select the eyedropper and click on something you know is white in the image.

Editing the Tone

The tone section allows you to modify the brightness and darkness of different image areas. This can help to recover overly bright skies or dark shadowed areas in the image.

Again, start by hitting the Auto button in tone and see what Lightroom suggests for the image. I often do this and then hit cmd/ctrl-Z to undo it so I can see Lightroom’s suggestion.

Editing the image’s tone is a little up to you and a little up to the histogram. You are striving to get most of the tone into the center of the histogram.

Use the histogram in the upper left to pay attention to how the light is distributed throughout the image. In general, you want to see a fairly even distribution of light across the whole graph. When you use the auto button, this is what Lightroom is trying to do for you. In most cases, it will get you close, but you will have to make a few more tweaks to the tone to dial in the correct feel for the image.

Histogram – Before and After using the Tone Auto function

Once you start manually updating the tone sliders, you can modify the amount of light in the image’s highlights, whites, shadows, and blacks. You can see the histogram change in real time as you make the adjustments.

Tip – When moving the tone sliders, Lightroom will highlight the histogram section related to the value you are changing. Paying close attention to the shape of the graph as you adjust the image will help you learn how your changes relate to the light in the photo.

Lightroom has a terrific tool called the Clipping Warning Overlay to help you dial the changes to the highlights and shadows. You almost never want to have parts of your image completely white or black. When you do that, these areas are called “blown out”, and there will be no detail in those locations.

To help with this, Lightroom has a tool called Clipping Warnings. It will overlay colored areas where the highlights or shadows are blown out. It will show a blue overlay where shadow areas are too dark and a red overlay where highlights that are too bright. To toggle Clipping Warnings on and off, press the “j” key or click on the triangles at the top of the histogram.

Here’s what I do for most images. With the Clipping Warnings on, I make a slight adjustment to the exposure slider, increasing or decreasing it to move the histogram peaks to the center.

Then I adjust the Highlights and Shadows sliders so that the red and blue overlay colors are barely there. This gives me the maximum dynamic range in the image.

Finally, I will make small changes to the Black, White, or Contrast sliders until I feel the correct tone.

Editing the Presence

Now that the tone is correct, it’s time to blow it up with the Texture, Clarity, Vibrance, and Saturation sliders.

Texture and Clarity have similar effects. They create sharpness or softness around the edges of items in the photo. The effect will be different for every image. Texture targets smaller items (hair, cracks, wrinkles), whereas Clarity works on larger items (faces, eyes, large patches of color).

For female and children’s portraits, I take them down a little; for male portraits, I increase them a little; for nature photography, I increase Texture and Clarity. Pushing these settings above or below 20 on the slider is too much for me.

Vibrance and Saturation also have similar effects, and it will be up to how you want the photo to look. Beginning Lightroom users are prone to overuse these settings. The temptation is to make your image “pop.” So be careful with these sliders. Pushing them above 20 is probably too much. However, you can create interesting looks by decreasing the Vibrance or Saturation.

Dehaze

I didn’t lump Dehaze in with Texture and Clarity because it’s a different animal. Dehaze works well for removing or adding a little fog or haze to an image. A little bit goes a long way, so don’t abuse this slider.

Detail Edits

This is another topic that I will cover in detail in another article. Getting into the details involves using the masking tools. For beginning users, I would suggest going into the mask tool, selecting the sky or the subject, and applying minor adjustments.

How to Export Photos from Lightroom

Once you’ve finished editing your pictures, the next step is to do something with them. Let’s export them to the disk so you can share them with others.

To export one image, just click on it. To select more than one, press the cmd/ctrl key and click on the images you want to export. Then right-click, select “Export,” or select Export from the File menu. Lightroom comes with some predefined export settings (you can create more – yes, that will be another article). For your first export, select “Export for email (hard drive)”, and the images will be saved as JPG images in your chosen folder.

Review

I hope that this tutorial has helped get you started with Adobe Lightroom basics and that you can start using it to organize your photos and edit them with a little more confidence. There are many more things I don’t have room to discuss in this post; keep an eye out for further Lightroom tutorials and tips as I dive further into the subject.

The other panels that we’ll discuss further in the following article are:

• Tone Curve
• Details & Masking
• Spot Removal
• Red-Eye Reduction
• Effects
• HSL/Color
• Black and White
• Using Presets

Thanks for reading, and please ask any questions in the comments field, which I will happily answer.

Lightroom Pricing

Lightroom is not available as a standalone application for your computer. Adobe’s subscription model starts at $9.99 monthly or roughly $120 yearly. I know this seems like a lot, but it’s a deal based on what you get and how expensive the standalone licenses used to cost.

Adobe offers three different subscription plans for photographers:

1) Photography Plan with 20GB cloud storage – $9.99 per month

This plan includes Photoshop, Lightroom Classic, and Lightroom. It’s is perfect if you intend to use Lightroom and Photoshop. You can activate and remain signed in to the app(s) on up to two computers, but you can only be active on one computer at a time.

2) Photography Plan with 1TB cloud storage – $19.98

Same as the base Photography Plan with both Lightroom versions and Photoshop, but with 1TB cloud storage included. You’ll need this plan if you intend to use Lightroom CC heavily and will be storing all your images in the cloud. Tip – You can start with the 20GB version and upgrade to this one when you need extra storage.

3) Lightroom only with 1TB cloud storage – $9.99

This is a good plan if you only want to use Lightroom CC. It costs the same as the basic Photography Plan and includes 1TB of cloud storage. The drawback is that you do not get access to Lightroom Classic or Photoshop.

Tip – You can get a 70% discount if you’re a student or a teacher. See Adobe for details.

Keyboard Shortcuts in Lightroom

Here are the keyboard shortcuts that I use most often :

• G – Go to the Library/grid view.
• D – Go to the Develop module
• \ – View original image in Develop module
• J – Toggle clipping overlay in Develop module
• F – View image full screen
• R – Go to the Develop module and activate the Crop tool
• X – Rotate the Crop (e.g. 4×5 to 5×4)

Is There Any Way to Get Lightroom for Free?

Yes, Lightroom Mobile is a free app for iOS and Android. You can download and use it on your mobile device or tablet at no charge. By downloading the free app, you’ll be able to use all the editing features. You can access all the photos in your device’s photo library (iCloud or Google), but won’t be able to sync to the cloud or use any of Adobe’s extended features without a license.

Can I Purchase a One-Time License for Lightroom?

Adobe switched Lightroom’s license model to subscription-only in 2017, so that is the only legitimate way to get a copy of the software. If you find someone on the internet offering a one-time or perpetual purchase license, it’s a scam. If you buy the software, it will be an outdated and unsupported version of the software –

DO NOT BUY IT

In reality, Adobe’s license for Lightroom ran about $120 and new versions came out every other year or so. In the subscription model, for $120 a year you get both Lightroom and Photoshop, so that’s a deal in most people’s opinion. You may not start out using Photoshop, but eventually, you will.

Tip – Adobe has an excellent camera app called PS Camera that you should check out.

The post Adobe Lightroom Basics A Free Guide For New Photographers appeared first on Croasdill Photography.